BEEN THERE, SEEN IT, DONE IT
A Lesser-known Market
Valbonne is a charming little town to visit any time of the week, but the best time to go is during the Friday morning open market, when stalls of regional gourmet delicacies and crafts line the Place des Arcades, spilling over to most of the pedestrian-only village. Your best bet for parking is in the big field to the west of the village centre.

High-class Eatery
You don’t have to be a guest of the historic Hotel Negresco to enjoy its whimsical carrousel-themed brasserie, La Rotonde. Make a reservation for the buffet brunch, and have the valet take care of the parking. Don’t miss the chance to peek at the lobby’s 16,309-stone Baccarat chandelier, whose twin resides in the Kremlin. 37, Promenade des Anglais, Tel +33 (0) 4 93 16 64 00

Military Architecture at its Best
The imposing Fort Carré (Square Fort) has been looming over the city of Antibes for over 400 years, but it’s only been in the past two years that the public has been allowed to see the inside. Not only is the fort an impressive example of military architecture, the surrounding grounds are part of the coastal nature conservation zone. Catch a tour (every half hour) to see the 360° views from the top. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-4.30pm (park in the port or in front of the football stadium).

Monastic Living
Ile St-Honorat is the smaller and less visited island of the two Iles des Lérins, off the coast of Cannes. Strictly run by the Cistercian monks who live there and cultivate the land for wine, honey and liqueurs, there are fewer ferries, no restaurants, and no bicycles allowed. But if you’re looking for absolute peace, you can send a written request to stay at the monastery as a guest with modest room and board for a small fee. Write to: Frère Hôtelier, Abbaye Notre Dame de Lérins, B.P. 157, 06406 Cannes Cedex, Fax +33 (0) 4 92 99 54 01, or visit www.abbayedelerins.com

Country Cooking
Mougins isn’t lacking in fine dining establishments, but Le Petit Fouet has a particularly warm welcome and great traditional French country cooking (including the house specialty, Grandma Fouet’s Cassoulet). About €35 for a menu with wine. Le Petit Fouet, Auberge de Mougins, 12 place du Village, Tel +33 (0) 4 92 92 11 70.

Cosy Evenings
Nights on the Riviera can be quite chilly in November, so snuggle up with the artsy young crowd at Le Café Cosy for Irish coffee and cocktails on roomy velour sofas. Enjoy the friendly welcome and mellow music. Open nightly from 6pm. 3 rue Migranier (off the Place Nationale, just follow the little candles lighting the way).

Coastal Path
Most of the Riviera is so overdeveloped it’s hard to believe that there are still places right along the coast virtually free of people. The seaside walking trail stretches all the way around the Cap Ferrat from Plage de Passable all the way to the Port Saint-Jean, high up on red rocky cliffs covered in parasol pines. Beware of windy days...

Truffle Snuffling
Considered one of the best dining experiences in Provence, Chez Bruno’s in Lorgues (the Var) is well worth a daytrip from Nice. Dubbed the Truffle King of France, Michelin-starred Clément Bruno prepares a set menu with generous use of the rare mushroom in what used to be his grandmother’s country home. Hotel-Restaurant Chez Bruno,“Campagne Mariette”, Route des Arcs, Lorgues, Tel +33 (0) 4 94 85 93 93.

Modern Art
If you’re the type of person who wanders around museums wondering how much the works of art cost, you’ll like the Gallerie Beaubourg, a contemporary art gallery and sculpture garden set in the former Château Notre-Dame des Fleurs (still listed as a perfume museum in old guidebooks). The setting itself is reason enough to visit, and if you fall in love with a Ben painting or a César statue, you can always whip out the credit card! There’s also a museum gift shop. Open Tuesday-Saturday from 12.30-5.30pm, on the main road (D2210) from Vence heading towards Tourette-sur-Loup (follow the signs). Tel +33 (0) 4 93 24 52 00.

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