Explore Old Nice
The Italian-influenced maze of roads in Old Nice (Vieux Ville) are full of little boutiques selling everything from vintage clothing and mosaic decorations, to local delicacies like Socca, and all sorts of souvenirs. Its centre is the Cours Saleya, a flower and local produce market with squash blossoms and olive tapénade under striped canopies. On Mondays it doubles as an antique market.

A Gastronome’s Paradise…
Real Niçoise cuisine doesn’t get any more authentic than at L’Achhiardo’s (38 rue Droit, Old Nice). You’ll be crammed into long wooden tables next to other tourists and loyal locals. Order the house wine and the Plat du Jour, and forget dieting. If there’s no room, try Le Gésu up the road at Place du Jésus.

Picasso’s Nymphs
Even if you’re not a fan of Picasso’s work, it’s hard not to enjoy a visit to the Chateau Grimaldi, where he spent many happy months painting nymphs and making pottery. The sculpture garden terrace overlooks the entire coast from the Cap d’Antibes to Nice. Musée Picasso,Place Mariejol, Old Antibes, open Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-noon and 2pm-6pm.

Medieval Artefacts
The picturesque perfection of medieval Eze Village hides all traces of a past plagued with devastating earthquakes and lightning, pillaging pirates, and 20th-century neglect. Wear good shoes for the steep cobblestones, and discover all of the artisan crafts and galleries hidden in tiny boutiques. If it’s a sunny day, book lunch on the cliff-top terrace restaurant of the Chateau Eza, Tel +33 (0) 4 93 41 12 24, formerly a holiday home of the Swedish Royal family.

Dance the Night Away
The Sass is still a sure bet for late-night music and dancing in Nice’s neighbouring principality (Monaco), attracting all the big names on their way to (or from) the absurdly expensive Jimmy’z night club down the road. You can show up early for dinner at 9pm, but all of the fun starts after midnight. 11 Ave Princesse Grace, Monte Carlo, Tel+377 932 55 200.

Rothschild Heirlooms
The Villa Rothschild is an Italian palace built in 1905 to house the impressive collection of art and decorative objects of the Baroness Ephrussi-de-Rothschild. Set amongst acres of magnificent gardens, the villa dominates the Cap Ferrat. Have afternoon tea in the elegant café overlooking the port of Villefranchesur- Mer. Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Tel +33 (0) 4 93 01 45 90; Open daily from 2pm-6pm, weekends from 10am-6pm.

Quay of Millionaires
Follow the old stone ramparts in Antibes’ Port Vauban past all of the “little” sailboats to the Quai de la Grande Plaisance, dubbed the Quay of Millionaires (there’s a guardhouse at the entrance, just walk through the pedestrian gate). Here you can ogle some of the largest super-yachts in the world, with their own helicopters and staff in matching polo shirts.

The Riviera by Bus
Catch the new open-top bus tour (hourly in front of the Théâtre de Verdure, on the Prom) for a relaxing 90-minute tour of places too far apart to see on foot. Across the main squares of the city, up to Cimiez, through the Port and up to Mont Boron (with stops for photos) with commentary on headphones. Bring a warm hat and scarf so you can enjoy the open-top seating on chilly (but sunny) November days. Tickets can be purchased on board or at Nice tourism offices. €16 (€8 for children).

Exotic Gardens
The best daytime views over Monaco can be seen from the Exotic Gardens (Jardin Exotique), an amazing collection of cacti and succulents from around the world perched on the cliffs overlooking the entire town and its ports. Skip the grotto part of the tour – unless dark, damp and cold doesn’t scare you away from the stalactites and stalagmites. Open daily 9am until nightfall, entry €6.40 (€3.60 children/students, free for children under six-years-old.)

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